Travelling from Jakarta to Lombok is approximately 2 hours, Jakarta airport is fairly fluid and relaxed. Garuda was the airline choice, there are many to choose from, but working on the premise their safety record showed up the best and had the most suitable flight times, it was the airline of choice. A comfortable flight, fabulous visibility, I was pinned to the window watching Java and Bali pass below me.
Lombok is a large island dominated by its volcano in the north. Tourism revolves around the main town of Mattaram and there are a few scattered luxury resorts to the south, but little else save for back packer hostels.
Staying slightly outside Mattaram meant a hire care was necessary. The island is too large to cover by motorbike and the 4wd booked was not as advertised- however, the car rental company didn’t quite realise we are not your average tourist when it comes to exploring off road, we do take cars where others don’t, so off we headed without making too much of a fuss…their mistake !
Over the week the west and southern section of the island was covered. Mattaram Town is a melee of small streets, packed with people,buildings, motorbikes, cars, small trucks all jostling for space. It was noisy and hot,with lots of character, but sadly couldn’t be avoided when trying to head off to quieter areas.
Motorbikes, cars, people, the traffic is non-stop…
Queuing, he looked so good on his bike…
Interesting mud flap …
Walking home from school….
Lombok rice fields from the air…so green…
Mosque at sunset…Mattaram..
After sunset at the hotel..
Selling basketwork…
Selling Mosque tops ?? ….
Colourful bamboo wares…
Water buffalo on a bicycle…
Roadside stall…
Slightly different school run…
Traditional band…
and dancers..the women so elegant…
Traditional Lombok home…
Beautiful Lombok beach…
Truck made for 13 or 14 or …. well there’s a lot of people in the back of that little pickup…
Off fishing…
Outrigger at anchor…
Rice fields…
Road side barbecues..
Colourful hijabs..
Junction, wires, bikes,decrepit buildings and horse and trap..seemed to encapsulate the progress here…
Roadside Hammock sales…
Taking a break…
Traditional Lombok…
Roadside fruit stalls…
Break time…
Picking up on a hint from a fellow traveller, we headed off to find “Pink Coral beach” … crossing the island on the main two lane highway, dodging bicycles, trucks and pedestrians was a slightly fraught journey until we reached the dirt road that took us to the south-eastern tip of Lombok. Here the track was rough and our inadequate 2wd rental was put to the test. Reaching the tip, some spectacular views, high on cliffs with sheer drops down to an unforgiving sea, it was time to get back to the safety of the terrible dirt road.
Pink Coral beach had a long undrivable track down the cliffs so it was time to do some walking and not think about the journey back up . At sea level, the pink sand was an unusual sight, ground from the red coral reefs offshore with idyllic turquoise seas, it was a remote paradise. Some small beach shacks, a few boats disgorging passengers, but further down the beach, not a soul in sight. Lying in the sea, in this remote place, I thought of how small my world was and how much is out there to be seen …
Driving the dreadful road…
South Eastern tip of Lombok….
Pink coral beach,sea and sky…
Bunny fingers on the beach…
Pink coral beach…
Ok, it’s me, who could resist this…
Climbing back up from Pink coral beach…
Back on the road again after the long haul back up from the beach and turning left off the track, we were heading to the south coast, it was a long and bumpy ride through jungle, with lizard sightings – no photos, they moved too fast ! A small village miles from anywhere indicated we were closer to the south, the villagers were poor, homes are raised wooden structures, some with makeshift walls, with usually a washing line and the inhabitant’s clothes on hangers under the cover of the palm roof : there is no visible furniture, only hammocks and raised platforms for sleeping, a fragile life in this humid area.
Boys in traditional garb…
Tobacco growing…
Returning from the tobacco fields…
Rural ride…
Head carrying is normal here…
Formidable ladies riding the truck…
Harvesting the dried fish…
Wizard on a bike…
Green Lombok…
Bird travelling by bike…
Home for some soul…
The south coast was spectacular, but with no-one visible anywhere.We could have been the only people on this coast… A track to the beach was found and bumping down it to the sweep of a vast bay, some huts to the back , we were completely alone. The tide was high and about 1km out there was a rock formation that marked the reef . Each sweep of coastline repeated this wild and idyllic seascape. As the tide dropped, the reefs became populated by villagers collecting shell fish for food.
South coast reef sculptured by the elements..
I sighed in ecstasy on arrival at this piece of Southern Lombok heaven…
Another view of ecstasy bay….
Down to the South coast…
Interesting sign, it remains mystical for me, it was a long, bumpy track heading downhill…wasn’t too sure the hire car would make it back up and this was Miles from anywhere…
Kuta, a leaning berugaq…
The South-east tip of Lombok,unusual province name…
BB beach…
Resting up in the berugaq…
Head carrying starts young…
In one of the stops, Monkeys were on the high cliffs and we saw them scampering down the cliffs out onto the exposed reef .. there was little of interest shell wise, until I came across a juvenile lambis chiagra (missed the photo opportunity), left in a rock pool as the tide had retreated. Beautifully defined, it was a prize on an otherwise barren beach and was not left behind…
Starfish in the sand…
Volute nobilis, Lombok… found on the beach… Success…!
Red and Orange corals found on the beach, returned to the sea for posterity…
Hand-hewn wooden boat, still in use nowadays…
See no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil …well, sort of…
Cliff climbing Monkey…
Playing by the boats…
Villagers far out on the reef, searching for food…
Collecting food from the reef at low tide…
Starfish,sundried on the beach…
Further along the coast we came to Kuta, a dusty backpacker town, handwritten signs, kaftans and wifi cafes, one or two luxury resorts tucked away behind high coconut matting walls, idyllic beaches, one could just lose themselves here in this escapist place.
Ikat weaving is traditional in Indonesia and in Lombok there are several villages where the traditional craft is still carried out. Sukarara is one and traditionally women must learn the art of weaving before being considered as marriageable.
Invited into a weaver’s house, I watched this age old craft with interest, 2 generations of women were sitting on the ground creating the most intricate of textiles, surrounded by small children, chickens, dogs and poverty . A buy was inevitable and it’s a treasured part of my souvenir collection. Leaving the village, I came across the Co-operative, a wonderful treasure-house of woven textiles.
For someone like myself, who loves fabrics, it was utter heaven .. I didn’t know what to choose, but finally settled on a beautiful blanket, sofa throw and a “piece of fabric that if you are inventive will look great anywhere ” item … it decorates my chair, love it to bits.
Colorful throws…
Weavers at the Co-op…
Sukahara weavings…
Beautiful handwoven fabrics…
Weavers at the Co-operative…
Old lady weaving….
With her daughter too…
Wonderful memories of this beautiful place, Indonesia is still on the to do list; its such a huge nation,with so many different islands to visit .
Waiting for their turn at the festival…
Bamboo decorations…
Men traditionally dressed for local festival…
Traditional Lombok…
Mosque in the jungle…
Mosque in the fields…
Sunset through the palms…
Bunny wave from cuties on the beach…Loved these two, such happy smiles…
Roots, I always photograph roots…
Ploughing the sky…Lombok…
Entrance to somewhere interesting..but the gates were locked…
Chinese graveyard , Mattaram…
Gotcha…roadside monkey…
Beautiful Lombok baby on a bike…
Fishfarm and ferries…
Fish farm and fishermen..
Cucumber motorbike seller heading through the jungle road…
Mother, Child and Grandpa on a motorbike…
One thing that struck me about our journey, Indonesia is a very colourful and tolerant Muslim nation. Coming from the Gulf, where clothing is traditionally black for women, it was such a change to see the women dressed in a respective fashion according to their religion, but with such vibrant colours and patterns. It is the largest Muslim nation in the world with over 62% of the world’s Muslims, but it is a way of life that mixes with other religions and creeds, seemingly without conflict in the under-developed areas of the nation.
Living in the Gulf, where Sharia law and religious ideals are part of everyday life for nationals and expatriates, it was refreshing to see the Muslim world from another perspective. I’m used to the prayer calls, the Abaya and Hijab are part of everyday culture. The Friday mosque parking hazards are just part of Dubai and I respect it, I’m choosing to live in a country that applies Sharia law, but it was a different and refreshing view on Islam and the acceptance of integration without the same restrictions applied to those not of the faith . Maybe its because there is a high level of poverty and faith is part of survival without expectation .
Indonesia is vast, this visit only touched a tiny part of it .. I search on Google maps and can see for me, another visit to a different area is surely part of the plan..Nusa Tenggari, Papua, Timor..where do I go next ..?
Some Eastern sunsets to close my story…
Intense Asian sunset… so vivid…
Last sunset over Bali…
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Travels in the Middle East and beyond 