Al Hofuf, a town full of interest!

Information about Al Hofuf ( courtesy of Wiki)

Al-Hofuf (Arabic ٱلْهُفُوف al-Hufūf, also spelled Hofuf or Hufuf, also known as “Al-Hasa”, “Al-Ahsa” or “Al-Hassa”) is the major urban city in the Al-Ahsa oasis in the Eastern Province of Saudi Arabia with a population of 858,395 (as of 2021). It is also known for being one of the largest date producers in the world, and for its old markets and palaces.

Historically Hofuf made textiles out of wool, silk, and cotton. The town was also renowned for its fruit of the date palm, the Arabs considering the khalasi variety of dates, locally grown in Hofuf, and also the fardh variety of Oman, among the best. As of 1920, the city was known for making coffee pots from brass and silver.

I didn’t really know what to expect from our day exploring Hofuf, to me it was just a place we had to spend time in to rest from the long drive to get there, before heading onwards.

But research showed there was plenty of interest to occupy us for a day, so after a good night’s sleep we headed out early to explore.

As we drove through empty streets, the realization hit us that it was Friday, Holy day and first day of the weekend in Saudi. Everything closes, people pray, rest and attend midday prayers…life starts again early evening. Hmm, were we going to miss everything and regret the error?!

Our first stop was the Fish market and as we drove into the old town, daily life for the immigrant workers, who make up so much of the workforce, was already in full swing.

The Fish market is small but was buzzing with vendors and buyers. Apart from the initial shock when we appeared, suspect they don’t get too many British tourists popping in and one a woman too, we were welcomed inside.

The staff are mainly Indian, most spoke some English and we were surrounded with friendly chatter and I was given allowance to take photographs from everyone whom I asked.

Healthy fresh fish and shellfish, Tuna, RedSnapper, Grouper, Barracuda, Hamour, Sheri, Blue crab, cuttlefish, prawns and a myriad of other smaller fish unknown to me were all on sale, tempting, but it’s not a cooking trip for me!

Not far away is the Qasr Ibrahim (palace) in the old town area.We had thought it would be closed when the Friday realization fell into place, but decided we would go and have a look. The outside is stunning and I expect the inside is worth a visit.

It was built in 1556 by Ali Ibn Ahmed Ibn Lawand Al-Burayki, the Ottoman governor of the time. The castle was renovated in 1801 by the Saudi governor Ibrahim Ibn ‘Ufaysan. Several historians believe that the castle was named after him.

Ibrahim Palace covers an area of 16500 square meters. Moreover, it is characterized by an architectural style that blends the Islamic and military features with the traditional architecture styles of Al-Ahsa region. Those styles are exhibited in the arcs, domes and ornamental designs.


In 2018, Al Ahsa Oasis (the reason why the town of Hofuf was created) became the fifth Saudi site to be registered on the Unesco World Heritage site. Qasr Ibrahim Mosque was included as one of the 12 sites.

The Sharia Dome school is opposite, a school for teaching Sharia and linguistic science. The main building is being renovated but the entrance area is complete.

Close by is the beautiful Al Koot Heritage hotel. It would have been lovely to have stayed here but a tad over our budget…

Behind the hotel a small area is getting a really funky face-lift…I loved it! Strong vibrant traditional colors with traditional design work slanted towards the new era…it will be a great place to visit when complete.

The old town has a long way to go before renovations are completed. Many of the mud brick houses are ruins, but what we saw, we loved!

Flashing round a corner leaving the old town we stumbled across this huge colorful mural, it certainly livened up the area…

Even the public toilets had a nice touch with a traditional design around the top. All of them in town have this design, makes them easy to spot!

Outside Hofuf there are some amazing rock formations to visit. The first mountain we arrived at , Jabal Shabah is home to an adventure park project, started around 2017 but it never became operational so it’s like gazing onto a ghost park. Empty water slides, cable cars suspended in the air motionless, empty suspension bridges, unused high ropes frames, all the infrastructure in place but it appears never used.

We found a road up to the top, we could see picnic tables and Gazebos set up to take in the magnificent views but a pretty mean looking road barrier stopped us getting in.

I’m sure that this project will somehow be revitalized as the location and views are stunning. It has a slightly unnerving feel about it at present, such huge amount of work and money and it literally hangs in suspension…

We pulled to the roadside lower down for photos but it was very hazy and the photos don’t do justice to the view of the town and the massive date plantations

We then headed to Al Qarah hill and cave, we found the little road that accesses the summit and marveled at some extraordinary rock formations and views, but didn’t go cave finding, not my thing!

Leaving to head towards the desert rocks we found ourselves amidst date plantations and came across a Heritage building, sadly crumbled, hopefully it won’t degrade further now it’s marked as a heritage site. Either a small fort or palace.

Heading out to the desert we passed through a massive equestrian area and just behind stood these beautiful rock formations, the smaller one is Jebel Arba and the larger is Jebel Dukhnah.

As many of you have realized from previous posts, I have a great love of doors. Hofuf did not disappoint in that respect, worthy of a separate post, watch for that to open up, any door lovers!

Evening saw us heading to the Souk Qaysariya…we were fairly early, arriving just before sunset but the atmosphere was starting to buzz, full of people shopping and dining and just socializing. The souk has been renovated beautifully and was one of the largest covered markets in the Arabian gulf and the oldest. It was established in 1822. The souk architecture features traditional Al Ahsa design with covered passages, has 422 small stalls selling clothing, herbs, embroidery etc, and was included in the Unesco World Heritage list in 2018.

One notable point for me is that all visitors are welcomed by young girls in traditional costume and slightly older girls who came to ask if we needed help to find our way and explain about the Souk. It was very refreshing to see such interaction…

On the road again…January 2024.

So the trip has begun.

An early start from Dubai had us traveling to Abu Dhabi with the morning commuters and then leaving them behind as we pushed on through 3 hours of excellent roads, but repetitive landscapes.

This end of the Emirate of Abu Dhabi mainly consists of Sabkha plains (The Sabkha is a translation of the Arabic word (سبخه), geologically referring to any form of flat salt-encrusted desert that usually lacks any significant plant cover due to the high concentration of salts and sediments where the level of groundwater is very low and may be zero in some locations.)

Not many interesting photo opportunities, so I limited myself to one…

View for a lot of the journey….

There is a peninsula that juts out into the Gulf just before the border which leads to Ghagha island ( now a military area and not accessible) which I visited in past years, this area was much more interesting and great for camping, just by the way!

We arrived at the border around 1pm and …ok, I’ve left it to the very last moment to give our destination, some readers familiar with the region have already guessed where I’m heading…the border is entry to the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.

It might sound like a strange country to visit but early in 2023, when my blogging of my journey failed, I was just about to cross the border into Saudi for the first time as a tourist. I will be writing up that journey but suffice to say I found it a fascinating and interesting country.

The visa is issued for a year (90 days maximum stay per year, multiple entry) so we have until February to utilize the remainder. As we already travelled in southern Saudi, it’s time to hit the North and West.

We crossed at the Al Batha checkpoint. It’s painless leaving the UAE, all port systems are connected so all our details and that of the car are in the system.A quick chat with the immigration agent about our trip as he was quite fascinated to hear where we were going, a drive across the heavily barbed wired no-man’s land and as we had entered Saudi before in the car, it took 5 minutes to show our passports and visas to be entered into the system, we were stamped in and waved over for a customs check. (see note at the end, if you are interested in traveling to Saudi for further information)

Being of sane mind, we were not carrying anything that is illegal in the Kingdom, and I don’t think we have a “smuggler” look about us…quite hard to see me anyway, dressed in my abbaya and hijab!

Car insurance must be bought on the Saudi side before leaving the border port, so that done, we headed out onto the road heading for our first overnight stop in the town of Hofuf.

Straight out of the border crossing, a nice welcome sign and an abandoned petrol station…

The very first change was the condition of the roads, rather a change from the pristine highways of the Emirates but hey-ho, onwards we go, pot hole watching! To be fair, the road North runs along the end of the Gulf and the same Sabhka conditions prevail along this coastline, in places to a greater degree.

more Sabkha, but it’s different, it’s Saudi sabkha…
Looks like it’s going to be a flat view for a while…

The Dakar rally is happening during our visit and the road was full of the logistics vehicles, moving equipment, tyres, even a mobile hotel ( didn’t look like a 5 star one, I have to say!) One Dakar rally car, when we finally reached a petrol station, swung into the forecourt. We kept passing a trio of Harley bikers, seemed to fit into the whole motor theme…

The Harley boys, Dakar support vehicle and the dire road surface….

We were both involved in desert rally events during my time in Dubai, the OH was very involved with the Abu Dhabi Desert Challenge as Chief Marshall and Chief Pits Marshall at the F1in Abu Dhabi so there is keen interest in the ultimate event , the Dakar.

We are hoping to meet up with the rally route in a few days so will become Dakar watchers for a day… but I digress…the journey continued…

Now this route is a main route, used by Kuwaitis, Bahrainis and Qataris to travel to the UAE border, it also serves as a route to and from Riyadh to the border so we sailed past the first petrol station, confident of many more to come….Big mistake on our part!

Saudi roads are full of abandoned petrol stations, some recent, perhaps a result of the Covid lockdowns and some very old ruined ones, filled with drifting sand.

We had a little shock when the second tank started to flash empty , luckily the GPS and Google showed us the next one and we guessed that it would be a working one…slightly in trepidation as the kilometers matched what fuel was left…we hoped!

Qatar, turn right and there’s that Dakar truck again…

The turn for the Qatar border is on the coast. There was a very nice seaside park with a playground and cafes but we didn’t dare stop and waste any fuel…just caught a seaside sculpture of a pearl in shell, paying homage to the pearl fishing industry that was prevalent in these areas of the Gulf of Arabia in bygone times.

Pearl on the coast…

Finally we spluttered into the petrol station along with the Dakar car, filled up both tanks and headed off, won’t be making that mistake again on this trip!

Love seeing these Dakar cross-country rally cars…

Time to get to Hofuf, it had been a long day…

The road turns inland close to this point and runs through sand dunes, not huge but big enough to drift over the road, lots of “beware sand dunes”signs…bizarrely the dunes were mainly on the right side of the road.

Then finally Hofuf, which is one of the largest date producing areas in the world. The Date festival starts on the 18th January, sadly we will miss it.

We flashed past a couple of interesting Jebels ( mountains)on the way in, rising out of the desert landscape like eroded sentinels of the city, definitely to return to tomorrow!

Wonderfully eroded shapes…

To be visited…

A swift offload at the hotel, bathroom break and off to the delightful Topaz restaurant.Found on the very useful Trip advisor reviews it was a 5 minute drive from the hotel.A mix of Middle Eastern, Indian and some Western dishes, we opted for the mixed Tandoori grill plate. I think it was one of the best Tandoori I’ve ever eaten…will be returning tomorrow

Tasty Tandoori with fresh pomegranate juice….Yum!

A day exploring the sights of Hofuf tomorrow, I wonder what awaits us…

Route

Information

Saudi visa is applied for online at https://visa.visitsaudi.com/. Our visa was approved and returned with a couple of hours. Validity and cost information at the link.

Driving a car across: If it’s your car, car registration documents required, passport and visa. Car insurance bought at Saudi border, a variety of periods offered.

Recommendations

Accommodation in Hofuf: Lily hotel suites https://www.booking.com/hotel/sa/lily-suite.en-gb.html

Reasonable price, breakfast not included. Large comfortable rooms with all amenities.

As an option we visited the Al Koot Heritage hotel.This looked lovely if you want to have some character and spend a bit more money!

https://www.booking.com/hotel/sa/alkoot-heriatege.en-gb.html

Restaurant: Topaz Restaurant and Cafe https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g3238664-d6762399-Reviews-Topaz_Restaurant_Cafe-Al_Hofuf_Al_Ahsa_Eastern_Province.html

Unexpectedly great food.Recommend the Tandoori menu, lovely staff and great value.

Continue reading

On the road blogging fails in 2023…

So my thoughts that I would blog as I go, on our mammoth Middle East driving trip in February/March 2023, were initially thwarted when my original site ran out of media space very quickly into my trip…as photographs are a large part of my blogging journey, that was a bit of a disaster as I’m using the WordPress ( seems to be Jetpack now) mobile app and it’s not as intuitive (for me) as using and writing the blog on the computer, but I was traveling light (no computer) and with phone data so easily available at low cost everywhere now, the idea was to write it up in the car as we travelled….then I had to create a new site which was quite fraught on the road in remote places, in and out of data zones….so I intended that it would all be written up once we arrived home in Cyprus …. trying to upload 30 photos on the road and the signal goes from full bars to no bars but it’s still showing 5G and then you find 3 random photos uploaded totally out of sequence….grrr…. for peace of mind my blog had a break!

It ended up being a year long break, and I have just sorted it all out as we are heading off on a new Middle East road trip…. I have a bit of work to do to catch up with some very exciting travel that we took in 2023, but for now….watch this space!

Not the best time to run out of media space on my blog, partway through travelling!

So my blog came to a grinding halt three days ago.

Unable to upload the photos to accompany the post, I couldn’t understand what was happening and I’m using a mobile phone to write and post the blog as we travel, so not all the options are available in comparison to logging in to my site on a computer.

The next day I realised that I had used up my free media allowance for the original blog, so I looked at the options and bought my domain…..but…on reading the instructions for moving the blog to my domain, transferring my existing blog to my new domain is not something I want to do on my phone. It looks like it needs backups, downloads and a quiet afternoon on the computer with no disturbances, not something Im going to get on this trip!

So I created another blog to continue the journey.

Once I’ve posted the first post on the new site, I will add the link to this post for anyone to click onto if you would like to follow me….I’m heading into new territory on the 3/3….watch for the link….

Time to get going…Dubai to Shannah ferry port, Oman….

Getting going was easier said than done.

Post car purchase,we discovered the tyre adaptor key for lowering the spare wheel wasn’t included in the tool kit. Bit of a worry with a 12k plus round trip ahead and trying to find one wasn’t proving easy.

Tyre adaptor key….cost to order 900 dirhams ( over 200 euro!!!)

Lexus had none in the UAE and it was a 3 month delivery for an order so that wasn’t going to work for us on this trip and everywhere else we called didn’t have one in stock…so we bought two spare tyres to carry with us.

Slightly awkward with the spare tyres stacked in the back of the car but, best be safe than sorry. As we had to go back to the car souk to collect the insurance cover, we thought we’d mention the tyre key was missing.

So, car packed it was time to start moving. Heading to the Emirates Road, the OH was fiddling with the GPS unit which wasn’t picking up satellites and therefore, annoyingly, wasn’t working and the trip ahead is a biggie…the route is to Fujairah on the East coast of UAE, cross into Oman at Hatta, down to Masirah island, then to Mirbat in Dhofar, Salalah then along the coast to the Yemen border, then back up through Oman to the Saudi border, cross into Saudi and drive via Abha to Jizan, take the ferry to the Farasan islands in the Red sea for a couple of days then return through the mountains to Taif, then visit a dormant volcano site and return via Riyadh and Abu Dhabi.

A GPS unit is crucial for this trip, so a snap decision was made to replace it, but this meant a return trip to the Creek…..aagh, traffic, delay…what to do!

New GPS installed we headed off to the Car souk, where once the tyre tool predicament was explained , the boys headed off to look at their other cars for sale tool kits in case ours had been misplaced.That story will never be known but we left with the correct tyre tool and a saving of approx 200euro as that’s what this piece of metal costs to buy!!!

The reason for the Fujairah diversion to the journey was to collect Grayana cowrie DNA for scientific research for a project that the Smithsonian institute is carrying out in the Middke East… we had missed low tide from our delays but luckily found enough Cowries to take samples so then it was time to cross the border into Oman at Hatta.

Our route was Hatta, Sinaw, Mahout, Shannah…a long drive and sunset happened just after Hatta, so it was a long night drive…a little stop at the new Lulu supermarket in Sinaw for some fruit and a Tandoori takeaway…and a loo with a seat, not always available in the hinterlands of Oman and my new teflon hips are not yet adjusted to super squat mode, so that was a welcome supermarket stop in other ways!

Then the long haul night drive…. we always start off well, chirpy, chatty, music in the background, but after long hours of peering into the dark distance, trying to spot errant camels and blinded by big trucks, tiredness sets in…

Hitting Mahout we had 45 minutes to the camp site and Shannah port but as we came out of town and hit the Sabhka flats ( salt flats subject to tides), so quite dangerous in the dark if you drifted off the road, we hit intense humidity fog. I’ve never seen anything like it, we were completely blind driving using the GPs to stay within the road parameters, very unnerving and the OH was doing a driving/sleeping mode and so a mutual decision was made to pull off the road at the Comms tower as we knew it was high ground and not Sabkha…you cannot pull off the side of the road in Sabhka area, you may not get the car out again!

After an hour the peasouper fog cleared, the OH had had enough sleep to start the drive and we got to Shannah port at 3 am, we slept in the car, putting the tent up at 3 am is tense stuff, easier to crash in the car…

Car sleeping means you invariably wake with the dawn and as it’s really uncomfortable, you are happy to get up as the sun rises…so we headed off out onto the sandbanks to see what was around at sunrise…

Having had a successful day out on the low tide sandbanks,we decided to take the last ferry of the day across to Masirah and camp there to avoid waking at 4am to get the first local ferry at sunrise and could we could camp on Masirah without pressure to have another early start…

Trip route- Dubai to Fujairah, cross the Oman border at Hatta then to Sinaw and Shannah.

UAE Butterfly diary 1- Papilio demoleu

Papilio demoleus is a common and widespread swallowtail butterfly. It has common names of lime butterfly, lemon butterfly, lime swallowtail and chequered swallowtail. These names refer to the host plant which are usually citrus, mainly cultivated lime. Aside from it’s beauty, this butterfly is considered a pest and an invasive species found from Asia to Australia.

In Oman it is only found in the northern region and in the UAE. I’ve been hunting for this for a while and caught my first glimpse last November at a petrol station near the Rustaq oasis just north of Muscat. The butterfly fluttered over the car and off into the desert before I could turn my camera on.

I never saw another one in Oman, despite much looking.

Imagine my surprise this past weekend, when I was wandering along a beach on the East coast of the UAE, close to Dibba, at low tide looking for one my favourite shells that seems only to be found on the East coast at a couple of beaches, when I caught a flash of black, white and red and an exhausted Lime butterfly fluttered down onto the sand in front of me. I managed to creep up and get some close-up shots.

A delight to see…