Al Hofuf, a town full of interest!

Information about Al Hofuf ( courtesy of Wiki)

Al-Hofuf (Arabic ٱلْهُفُوف al-Hufūf, also spelled Hofuf or Hufuf, also known as “Al-Hasa”, “Al-Ahsa” or “Al-Hassa”) is the major urban city in the Al-Ahsa oasis in the Eastern Province of Saudi Arabia with a population of 858,395 (as of 2021). It is also known for being one of the largest date producers in the world, and for its old markets and palaces.

Historically Hofuf made textiles out of wool, silk, and cotton. The town was also renowned for its fruit of the date palm, the Arabs considering the khalasi variety of dates, locally grown in Hofuf, and also the fardh variety of Oman, among the best. As of 1920, the city was known for making coffee pots from brass and silver.

I didn’t really know what to expect from our day exploring Hofuf, to me it was just a place we had to spend time in to rest from the long drive to get there, before heading onwards.

But research showed there was plenty of interest to occupy us for a day, so after a good night’s sleep we headed out early to explore.

As we drove through empty streets, the realization hit us that it was Friday, Holy day and first day of the weekend in Saudi. Everything closes, people pray, rest and attend midday prayers…life starts again early evening. Hmm, were we going to miss everything and regret the error?!

Our first stop was the Fish market and as we drove into the old town, daily life for the immigrant workers, who make up so much of the workforce, was already in full swing.

The Fish market is small but was buzzing with vendors and buyers. Apart from the initial shock when we appeared, suspect they don’t get too many British tourists popping in and one a woman too, we were welcomed inside.

The staff are mainly Indian, most spoke some English and we were surrounded with friendly chatter and I was given allowance to take photographs from everyone whom I asked.

Healthy fresh fish and shellfish, Tuna, RedSnapper, Grouper, Barracuda, Hamour, Sheri, Blue crab, cuttlefish, prawns and a myriad of other smaller fish unknown to me were all on sale, tempting, but it’s not a cooking trip for me!

Not far away is the Qasr Ibrahim (palace) in the old town area.We had thought it would be closed when the Friday realization fell into place, but decided we would go and have a look. The outside is stunning and I expect the inside is worth a visit.

It was built in 1556 by Ali Ibn Ahmed Ibn Lawand Al-Burayki, the Ottoman governor of the time. The castle was renovated in 1801 by the Saudi governor Ibrahim Ibn ‘Ufaysan. Several historians believe that the castle was named after him.

Ibrahim Palace covers an area of 16500 square meters. Moreover, it is characterized by an architectural style that blends the Islamic and military features with the traditional architecture styles of Al-Ahsa region. Those styles are exhibited in the arcs, domes and ornamental designs.


In 2018, Al Ahsa Oasis (the reason why the town of Hofuf was created) became the fifth Saudi site to be registered on the Unesco World Heritage site. Qasr Ibrahim Mosque was included as one of the 12 sites.

The Sharia Dome school is opposite, a school for teaching Sharia and linguistic science. The main building is being renovated but the entrance area is complete.

Close by is the beautiful Al Koot Heritage hotel. It would have been lovely to have stayed here but a tad over our budget…

Behind the hotel a small area is getting a really funky face-lift…I loved it! Strong vibrant traditional colors with traditional design work slanted towards the new era…it will be a great place to visit when complete.

The old town has a long way to go before renovations are completed. Many of the mud brick houses are ruins, but what we saw, we loved!

Flashing round a corner leaving the old town we stumbled across this huge colorful mural, it certainly livened up the area…

Even the public toilets had a nice touch with a traditional design around the top. All of them in town have this design, makes them easy to spot!

Outside Hofuf there are some amazing rock formations to visit. The first mountain we arrived at , Jabal Shabah is home to an adventure park project, started around 2017 but it never became operational so it’s like gazing onto a ghost park. Empty water slides, cable cars suspended in the air motionless, empty suspension bridges, unused high ropes frames, all the infrastructure in place but it appears never used.

We found a road up to the top, we could see picnic tables and Gazebos set up to take in the magnificent views but a pretty mean looking road barrier stopped us getting in.

I’m sure that this project will somehow be revitalized as the location and views are stunning. It has a slightly unnerving feel about it at present, such huge amount of work and money and it literally hangs in suspension…

We pulled to the roadside lower down for photos but it was very hazy and the photos don’t do justice to the view of the town and the massive date plantations

We then headed to Al Qarah hill and cave, we found the little road that accesses the summit and marveled at some extraordinary rock formations and views, but didn’t go cave finding, not my thing!

Leaving to head towards the desert rocks we found ourselves amidst date plantations and came across a Heritage building, sadly crumbled, hopefully it won’t degrade further now it’s marked as a heritage site. Either a small fort or palace.

Heading out to the desert we passed through a massive equestrian area and just behind stood these beautiful rock formations, the smaller one is Jebel Arba and the larger is Jebel Dukhnah.

As many of you have realized from previous posts, I have a great love of doors. Hofuf did not disappoint in that respect, worthy of a separate post, watch for that to open up, any door lovers!

Evening saw us heading to the Souk Qaysariya…we were fairly early, arriving just before sunset but the atmosphere was starting to buzz, full of people shopping and dining and just socializing. The souk has been renovated beautifully and was one of the largest covered markets in the Arabian gulf and the oldest. It was established in 1822. The souk architecture features traditional Al Ahsa design with covered passages, has 422 small stalls selling clothing, herbs, embroidery etc, and was included in the Unesco World Heritage list in 2018.

One notable point for me is that all visitors are welcomed by young girls in traditional costume and slightly older girls who came to ask if we needed help to find our way and explain about the Souk. It was very refreshing to see such interaction…

On the road again…January 2024.

So the trip has begun.

An early start from Dubai had us traveling to Abu Dhabi with the morning commuters and then leaving them behind as we pushed on through 3 hours of excellent roads, but repetitive landscapes.

This end of the Emirate of Abu Dhabi mainly consists of Sabkha plains (The Sabkha is a translation of the Arabic word (سبخه), geologically referring to any form of flat salt-encrusted desert that usually lacks any significant plant cover due to the high concentration of salts and sediments where the level of groundwater is very low and may be zero in some locations.)

Not many interesting photo opportunities, so I limited myself to one…

View for a lot of the journey….

There is a peninsula that juts out into the Gulf just before the border which leads to Ghagha island ( now a military area and not accessible) which I visited in past years, this area was much more interesting and great for camping, just by the way!

We arrived at the border around 1pm and …ok, I’ve left it to the very last moment to give our destination, some readers familiar with the region have already guessed where I’m heading…the border is entry to the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.

It might sound like a strange country to visit but early in 2023, when my blogging of my journey failed, I was just about to cross the border into Saudi for the first time as a tourist. I will be writing up that journey but suffice to say I found it a fascinating and interesting country.

The visa is issued for a year (90 days maximum stay per year, multiple entry) so we have until February to utilize the remainder. As we already travelled in southern Saudi, it’s time to hit the North and West.

We crossed at the Al Batha checkpoint. It’s painless leaving the UAE, all port systems are connected so all our details and that of the car are in the system.A quick chat with the immigration agent about our trip as he was quite fascinated to hear where we were going, a drive across the heavily barbed wired no-man’s land and as we had entered Saudi before in the car, it took 5 minutes to show our passports and visas to be entered into the system, we were stamped in and waved over for a customs check. (see note at the end, if you are interested in traveling to Saudi for further information)

Being of sane mind, we were not carrying anything that is illegal in the Kingdom, and I don’t think we have a “smuggler” look about us…quite hard to see me anyway, dressed in my abbaya and hijab!

Car insurance must be bought on the Saudi side before leaving the border port, so that done, we headed out onto the road heading for our first overnight stop in the town of Hofuf.

Straight out of the border crossing, a nice welcome sign and an abandoned petrol station…

The very first change was the condition of the roads, rather a change from the pristine highways of the Emirates but hey-ho, onwards we go, pot hole watching! To be fair, the road North runs along the end of the Gulf and the same Sabhka conditions prevail along this coastline, in places to a greater degree.

more Sabkha, but it’s different, it’s Saudi sabkha…
Looks like it’s going to be a flat view for a while…

The Dakar rally is happening during our visit and the road was full of the logistics vehicles, moving equipment, tyres, even a mobile hotel ( didn’t look like a 5 star one, I have to say!) One Dakar rally car, when we finally reached a petrol station, swung into the forecourt. We kept passing a trio of Harley bikers, seemed to fit into the whole motor theme…

The Harley boys, Dakar support vehicle and the dire road surface….

We were both involved in desert rally events during my time in Dubai, the OH was very involved with the Abu Dhabi Desert Challenge as Chief Marshall and Chief Pits Marshall at the F1in Abu Dhabi so there is keen interest in the ultimate event , the Dakar.

We are hoping to meet up with the rally route in a few days so will become Dakar watchers for a day… but I digress…the journey continued…

Now this route is a main route, used by Kuwaitis, Bahrainis and Qataris to travel to the UAE border, it also serves as a route to and from Riyadh to the border so we sailed past the first petrol station, confident of many more to come….Big mistake on our part!

Saudi roads are full of abandoned petrol stations, some recent, perhaps a result of the Covid lockdowns and some very old ruined ones, filled with drifting sand.

We had a little shock when the second tank started to flash empty , luckily the GPS and Google showed us the next one and we guessed that it would be a working one…slightly in trepidation as the kilometers matched what fuel was left…we hoped!

Qatar, turn right and there’s that Dakar truck again…

The turn for the Qatar border is on the coast. There was a very nice seaside park with a playground and cafes but we didn’t dare stop and waste any fuel…just caught a seaside sculpture of a pearl in shell, paying homage to the pearl fishing industry that was prevalent in these areas of the Gulf of Arabia in bygone times.

Pearl on the coast…

Finally we spluttered into the petrol station along with the Dakar car, filled up both tanks and headed off, won’t be making that mistake again on this trip!

Love seeing these Dakar cross-country rally cars…

Time to get to Hofuf, it had been a long day…

The road turns inland close to this point and runs through sand dunes, not huge but big enough to drift over the road, lots of “beware sand dunes”signs…bizarrely the dunes were mainly on the right side of the road.

Then finally Hofuf, which is one of the largest date producing areas in the world. The Date festival starts on the 18th January, sadly we will miss it.

We flashed past a couple of interesting Jebels ( mountains)on the way in, rising out of the desert landscape like eroded sentinels of the city, definitely to return to tomorrow!

Wonderfully eroded shapes…

To be visited…

A swift offload at the hotel, bathroom break and off to the delightful Topaz restaurant.Found on the very useful Trip advisor reviews it was a 5 minute drive from the hotel.A mix of Middle Eastern, Indian and some Western dishes, we opted for the mixed Tandoori grill plate. I think it was one of the best Tandoori I’ve ever eaten…will be returning tomorrow

Tasty Tandoori with fresh pomegranate juice….Yum!

A day exploring the sights of Hofuf tomorrow, I wonder what awaits us…

Route

Information

Saudi visa is applied for online at https://visa.visitsaudi.com/. Our visa was approved and returned with a couple of hours. Validity and cost information at the link.

Driving a car across: If it’s your car, car registration documents required, passport and visa. Car insurance bought at Saudi border, a variety of periods offered.

Recommendations

Accommodation in Hofuf: Lily hotel suites https://www.booking.com/hotel/sa/lily-suite.en-gb.html

Reasonable price, breakfast not included. Large comfortable rooms with all amenities.

As an option we visited the Al Koot Heritage hotel.This looked lovely if you want to have some character and spend a bit more money!

https://www.booking.com/hotel/sa/alkoot-heriatege.en-gb.html

Restaurant: Topaz Restaurant and Cafe https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g3238664-d6762399-Reviews-Topaz_Restaurant_Cafe-Al_Hofuf_Al_Ahsa_Eastern_Province.html

Unexpectedly great food.Recommend the Tandoori menu, lovely staff and great value.

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On the road blogging fails in 2023…

So my thoughts that I would blog as I go, on our mammoth Middle East driving trip in February/March 2023, were initially thwarted when my original site ran out of media space very quickly into my trip…as photographs are a large part of my blogging journey, that was a bit of a disaster as I’m using the WordPress ( seems to be Jetpack now) mobile app and it’s not as intuitive (for me) as using and writing the blog on the computer, but I was traveling light (no computer) and with phone data so easily available at low cost everywhere now, the idea was to write it up in the car as we travelled….then I had to create a new site which was quite fraught on the road in remote places, in and out of data zones….so I intended that it would all be written up once we arrived home in Cyprus …. trying to upload 30 photos on the road and the signal goes from full bars to no bars but it’s still showing 5G and then you find 3 random photos uploaded totally out of sequence….grrr…. for peace of mind my blog had a break!

It ended up being a year long break, and I have just sorted it all out as we are heading off on a new Middle East road trip…. I have a bit of work to do to catch up with some very exciting travel that we took in 2023, but for now….watch this space!